Chuja Island, or Chuja-do (추자도) in Korean, is a place that’s pretty much free of tourists and is a beautiful little island well worth a visit. It’s located roughly 55km north of Jeju in the Korea Strait, about halfway between the island and the mainland.
It’s technically part of Jeju Province, but it feels completely different from Jeju-do. There are no crowds or traffic, and the only way in or out is by ferry.
If you’re lookingn to tick off some Jeju Olle Trails on your visit, Chuja-do is home to Routes 18-1 and 18-2, two of the most rugged and spectacular trails in the entire Jeju Olle network. For many people completing all the routes (like we did), it’s one of the last routes completed because it requires a bit more planning. For anyone seeking a genuine off-the-beaten-path island experience in Korea, Chuja-do is a great choice!
We’ll let you know everything you need to know to visit: including how to get there, which ferry to take, what the trails are actually like, where to stay, what to eat, and what to expect.
What Is Chuja Island?
Chuja Island consists of four inhabited islands – Sangchujado, Hachujado, Hoenggando, and Chupodo – and 38 uninhabited islands. The total permanent population is under 2,000 people. There is no airport, no highway connection, and not a lot for tourists to be honest, but that can be part of of its appeal!
Stepping off the ferry onto Chuja-do can feel a little like stepping back in time. The island has a few small convenience stores and local restaurants but not much else. The pace of life is determined by the sea, the weather, and the ferry schedule – in that order!
The island is also known for its fishing culture and seasonal seafood. Chuja Island is considered closer to Jeolla Province in character than to Jeju — you’ll hear the Jeolla dialect here, and the island has the charm of both regions combined.
Autumn and winter bring the best of the island’s famous yellow corvina and mackerel, which are prized across South Korea. So if you’re a seafood fan, you may want to consider timing your visit to give them a try!
Getting to Chuja Island: The Ferry
The Two Ferries
There are two ferry services that connect Jeju City to Chuja Island, departing from different terminals and arriving at different ports on the island.
Fast ferry (Queen Star / Seaworld Express): Departs from Jeju City Port (Terminal 1), arriving at Sangchuja Port (the upper island). The ferry takes about one hour and is the fastest option. It’s the best choice if you’re only doing a day trip, departuring at around 9:30am, with the return from Chuja at around 4:10pm (times are subject to change).
Slow ferry (Hanil Express car ferry): Departs from Terminal 7 and takes approximately 1.5–2 hours, arriving at Sinyang Port on the lower, southern island (Hachujado). Departures from Jeju leave at around 1:40pm, and the return from Chuja comes back at 10:30 am the following day. This is the cheaper option and depending on the fare you book, offers traditional floor seating with pillows rather than standard seats – which can be a unique experience (and one that kids will especially enjoy)!
Note: if you’re travelling on a Wednesday, your options are more limited as only one company operates. Check schedules carefully before booking if you plan on travelling on a Wednesday.
Which ferry should you take? For first-time visitors and those prioritising the Olle trails, the fast ferry to Sangchuja gives you more time on the island. For those who don’t mind the slower journey, the other ferry is cheaper. If you’re prone to motion sickness, be aware: both ferries can be extremely rough – consider taking anti-nausea medication before boarding.
Booking Tickets
Unfortunately you used to be able to pre-book tickets at Direct Ferries, but this option is no longer available at the time of writing. You can book via a Korean-language website, such as via Hanil Express, but completing payments as a foreigner (and even making sure you’re buying the right ticket) can be a little challenging.
The easiest option is to buy your tickets direct at the ferry terminal.
Check in at least 60 minutes before departure – this is standard for all Hanil Express ferries and is enforced.
Ferry Cancellations
You must check the weather forecast before you travel. Ferry services between Jeju and Chuja Islands are frequently cancelled due to bad weather. The main issue with this? You might get stuck on Chuja-do for an extra day or two. This is not a worst-case scenario, it actually happens pretty frequently, especially on the smaller ferry and during winter and the typhoon season (July–September).
We recommend building at least one contingency day into your plans if your wider schedule is time-sensitive. Having accommodation booked back on Jeju that can flex by a day, or travel insurance that covers missed connections, is highly recommended!
Getting to the Ferry Terminal from Jeju City
From Jeju International Airport, take Bus 500 to Jungang-ro Junction (12 minutes), then City Bus 92 to Jeju Ferry Terminal (7 minutes). Alternatively, City Bus 95 from the airport or Intercity Bus Terminal runs to the International Ferry Terminal (30 minutes). It’s then a 10-minute walk to the Jeju Ferry Terminal. Kakao T taxi from central Jeju City to the port takes around 10–15 minutes.
The Olle Trails on Chuja Island
Chuja Island is home to two of the most rewarding routes in the Olle network. Unlike a lot of the Jeju’s Olle trails, which are relatively flat coastal paths, the Chuja routes are more mountainous, with some big ascents and descents.
Both routes are rated high difficulty (though we did them over two days with three kids – so I personally wouldn’t say they were that difficult as long as you’ve got a decent level of fitness).
That said, a recent course change (after we completed the trails) has added a new Daewangsan Mountain section which is said to have increased the difficulty level. Recent walkers report each trail taking 6–8 hours rather than the previously stated 4–5.
The island itself is divided into two parts – Sang-Chuja (upper) and Ha-Chuja (lower) – which are connected by the Chujagyo Bridge. Each trail is approximately 10 kilometres in length, and together they form a loop around the whole island.
Olle Route 18-1: Sang-Chuja (Upper Island)
Route 18-1 is 11.4km long and takes around 4 to 5 hours. The trail goes up and down a few mountains, including Bonggeullesan, Muk-ri Hill, Sindaesan, and Dondaesan.
The route begins at Chuja Port and follows the coastline before climbing into the island’s interior. It passes notable landmarks like General Choe Yeong’s Shrine, a coastal setting that honours one of Korea’s most famous military figures. You’ll also go via Nabaronjeolbyeok Cliff, Chujagyo Bridge, Sinyang Port, and Mogjin Beach.
The cliff sections are among the most dramatic on the entire Olle network. You’ll walk along a single-track path that hugs the edge of the headland with sheer drops to the sea and views of Chuja’s many smaller satellite islands scattered across the water below.
We had finished the trail by sunset, but other walkers tell us that the sunset view from Bonggeullesan Mountain is amazing.
The Olle stamp stations are at Chuja Port (start), Muk-ri Supermarket (midpoint), and Chuja Port (end).
Olle Route 18-2: Ha-Chuja (Lower Island)
Route 18-2 covers 9.7km, takes 3–4 hours, and is also rated high difficulty. It runs from Sinyang Port to the Chuja-myeon village office, with views of mountains and villages.
While 18-1 is technically longer, many walkers find 18-2 the more visually spectacular of the two. On a clear day, the views from the higher points look back towards Jeju Island to the south, which is a pretty magical sight.
The lower island has a quieter, more remote character than the upper island, and the path passes through small fishing communities that feel almost untouched by tourism. You’re unlikely to pass many other walkers on the trail.
The only beach on Chuja Island is the Mojinee Mongdol (pebble) coast at Sinyang Port, the starting point of Route 18-2. It’s a peaceful 100-metre stretch of small pebbles with excellent sea views.
Walking Both Trails
The official Jeju Olle Foundation advice is to allow one overnight stay to properly complete both trails. If you’re an experienced walker than you can probably do both on the same day. But if you want to take your time and enjoy the island, an overnight stay is a great option.
For families and walkers with children: These are some big mountain trails with steep, uneven sections, metal staircases, and significant elevation.
Some people would say that the trails aren’t for young children (which is probably true for under 5s), but it does obviously depend on your kids and how much experience they’ve had hiking. Our 5-year-old managed both of the trails, but he did need to be picked up for a few sections due to the length of the trails.
For older children who are experienced hikers, Route 18-2’s slightly shorter length makes it the more manageable option, but be realistic about your kids’ capabilities before attempting it. The terrain varies from pebbles to pavement to metal staircases to single-track, with a couple of small mountain climbs throughout.
Where to Stay on Chuja Island
Accommodation options are limited by the island’s small size and population, but what exists is characterful and welcoming.
YouStay Chuja is the best-known option on the Sinyang side. This small pension right on the water gives you exceptional views. Run by a local host (Min) who has a genuine warmth and fantastic hospitality.
The café downstairs serves food and drinks, though the menu is simple (don’t expect a wide range of choice if you stay for a few nights running). Book in advance as it fills up quickly, particularly at weekends and during the Olle walking season.
There aren’t a huge number of options on the island, but there are a few located at the north of the island near the main ferry terminal. Jeju (Chuja) Eco Lodge is one option worth considering.
Chuja Olle Guesthouse offers dormitory accommodation. It’s a great option for solo walkers doing the thru-hike who don’t mind shared facilities.
General accommodation tips:
- Book as far ahead as possible and do some research to see what’s available – the island has very limited total capacity.
- A lot of the local accommodation is Korean-language only for bookings; Naver Maps and Google Translate work well for communicating with hosts.
- Cash is essential. There were no ATMs on the island when we visited (this may have changed), and it’s better to be prepared than to find yourself unable to pay for food and accommodation. Withdraw cash on Jeju before you board the ferry.
- Most accommodation can arrange dinner for you. Check when you make your booking, as there aren’t many restaurant options on the island (especially on the south side).
Food and Drink on Chuja Island
The island’s food culture is built around the sea, and its well known for its seafood. It’s fresher and less expensive than on Jeju.
Yellow corvina (Hwangseogi) is Chuja Island’s most well-known product. It’s prized across South Korea for its flavour and texture, and at its best in autumn and early winter. It’s served grilled, as sashimi, and in stews. If you’re visiting between October and January, it’s definitely worth trying.
Mackerel is equally celebrated in season. Autumn mackerel from Chuja Island is considered among the best in Korea. You can eat it as sashimi, grilled, or braised.
Outside of seafood, the food options are unfortunately a little limited. There are a handful of small local restaurants on each island, a couple of convenience stores, and that’s essentially it. Pack enough snacks for the trail regardless of what you plan to eat in the evenings (especially if you’re travelling with kids), and don’t expect café culture or international food options.
Getting Around the Island
There are no real taxi services on the island. The tourist information office near the trail endpoints can advise on bus options between the two main ports, and a local bus service runs throughout the day between 7 am and 9 pm. But the schedule is limited, so check it carefully before relying on it.
If you find yourself stuck without transport between ports after a long day of walking, don’t be too proud to accept a lift from a friendly local. It happens regularly, and many of the islanders are generally very welcoming of Olle walkers.
Practical Tips for Visiting
Don’t forget to check the weather. Ferry cancellations are very common. Build a contingency day into your plans and have a flexible accommodation booking on Jeju as a backup. This is the single most important piece of planning advice for Chuja!
Take cash. Withdraw enough before you go to cover accommodation costs, food, and any incidentals. Don’t assume ATMs will be available or that card payment will be accepted everywhere – because it’s typically not.
Start your trails early. Recommended hiking time is from 9:00 am to around 6 pm in summer and 5 pm in winter. For the Olles in general, we recommend starting early to help ensure you finish without risking losing the light.
Pack properly. These are mountain trails, not coastal strolls. Good grip footwear is important. Bring a waterproof jacket, plenty of water (there aren’t many shops along the route like many of the trails on Jeju), snacks, and sun protection. There are very limited facilities on the trails.
Navigation. The Olle waymarking system (blue and orange arrows and ribbons) are just as reliable on Chuja as on the main island, but fog can be common, especially if you’re travelling during cooler months. It can be worth downloading an offline map on Kakao Maps or Naver Maps before you lose signal.
Motion sickness. If you’re prone to seasickness, take medication before you get on the ferry – don’t wait until you feel ill. It can be challenging if you’re travelling with kids. Both ferries cross an exposed channel, and conditions can be rough at any time of year.
Olle Passport stamps. Don’t forget to stamp at the three stations on each route. The Chuja trails complete two of the 27 passport pages and are among the most memorable stamps to collect.
Is visiting Chuja worth it? Yes, a visit to Chuja is definitely worth it if you have the time on your visit to Jeju. While it requires more planning and more physical effort than many of Jeju’s must-see attractions – the combination of dramatic mountain hiking, seafood, and quiet island community that feels completely removed from the tourist circuit makes it unlike anything else you’ll experience. For Olle hikers, many describe it as the highlight of the whole circuit.
Ferry schedules and prices change regularly. Make sure to check the latest timetable directly with the ferry operator or at the port terminal before you plan to travel. The Jeju Olle Foundation’s official website features all the latest route information for Routes 18-1 and 18-2.